Sprinkler symptoms can overlap. The goal of troubleshooting is not to guess at a part—it is to narrow the problem safely and collect useful observations before deciding what to repair.
01
Start at the controller
Check that the controller has power, the time is set, and the rain sensor is not paused. A blank display, a tripped breaker, or a sensor left in the off position will stop every zone even when the valves and heads are fine.
02
Check whether one zone or every zone is affected
One dead zone usually points to that station’s valve, wire, or pipe. If nothing in the yard runs, look at the water supply, the controller, the common wire, or a master valve before replacing heads.
03
Look for valve and wiring clues
A humming solenoid, a constantly wet valve box, or a zone that only runs when you open the bleed screw is a valve or wire problem. Abilene’s heat is hard on valve boxes that sit in full sun, and nicked wire is common where beds have been reworked.
04
Inspect pressure and visible leaks
Turn on the weak zone and watch for a geyser, a soggy seam, or heads that barely rise. On caliche, a broken fitting can lose pressure without leaving a huge puddle on the surface. Note which zone it is before you shut the system back off.
When to request a sprinkler diagnostic
Request help when water will not shut off, a leak is causing erosion, electrical troubleshooting is required, or repeated adjustments do not restore even coverage.
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